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Travelling to Russia for the first time can be both a mystifying and fascinating experience. The following guidelines are primarily intended for those people who are preparing for their first trip to the Russia, though we recommend that all participants read them through. The guidelines include "generic" information about travel to Russia as well as commentary and suggestions related to Russian culture and customs.
Packing: What to Bring and What to Leave Behind
Luggage
All passengers on international flights are permitted to check two pieces of luggage up to 70 pounds in weight each. However, there will be times when you will need to move your luggage quickly from one place to another. This may involve walking long distances with all your luggage, often up and down stairs. There will not be any porters (or elevators for that matter) and you will be responsible for your own belongings at all times. We strongly advise that our participants limit their luggage to one piece of checked luggage (no more than 35 pounds) and one carry-on bag (that fits under the airplane seat or in the overhead compartment - no more than 10 pounds).
All luggage should be clearly labeled with the owner's name, address and phone number.
If your group will be taking a domestic flight within Russia, only 20 kilograms (44 pounds) total weight is allowed. Otherwise, an extra baggage fee will be assessed to the individual participant.
Clothing
Functional and practical are the two words to keep in mind when planning your wardrobe for Russia. A typical set of clothes for a 2-3 week trip includes:
3-4 pairs of pants or skirts
2 or 3 long sleeve casual shirts, turtlenecks etc.
bathing suit
1 outfit for evening/formal event
1 outfit for exercise
underwear/socks
sleepwear
2 sweaters (for winter travelers)
long underwear (tops and bottoms -- for winter travelers)
waterproof jacket (or heavy coat for winter travelers)
comfortable walking shoes
waterproof shoes/boots
Seasoned travelers to Russia recommend bringing dark clothing that hides dirt well, and solid-colored clothing that can be mixed and matched to form different outfits. Layering clothing allows you to adjust to changing weather conditions. Keep in mind that most families do not have washing machines. You can do laundry by hand and hang it to dry.
Leave behind excess clothing or extra pairs of shoes that you will use only once or twice. It's OK to sacrifice fashion for the sake of comfort while travelling. In Russia, it's perfectly acceptable to wear the same clothes several days in a row. Remember the weight limit on the plane and try to bring versatile clothing that can be worn on different occasions. Also keep in mind that people in your host community generally have only four or five compete changes of clothes. If they can live with this simplicity in general, you can surely do it for a few weeks.
Toiletries & Personal Items
In major RUSSIAN cities, it is now possible to buy toiletries and personal goods. However, shopping continues to be a frustrating and time-consuming experience. You don't want to waste your limited amount of time in Russia searching stores for toothpaste! Bring along any toiletries or personal items you commonly use, such as toothpaste and toothbrush, soap, mouthwash, shampoo, shaving accessories, comb or hairbrush, contact lens supplies and feminine hygiene products. Some travelers find a supply of handi-wipes to be of great use from time to time. We recommend that travelers to Russia bring individual packets of Kleenex with them because toilet paper is not always available in RUSSIAN bathrooms. Towels are provided in all hotels and by families.
Medicines
It's wise to bring a small supply of basic medicines (pain reliever, cold medicine, motion sickness tablets, allergy medicine, chewable Pepto Bismol and a laxative, band-aids and an anti-bacterial cream like Neosporin). Any prescription drugs (such as asthma medications) that you are currently taking should be in their original containers and the group leader should be aware that they are in your possession. Be sure to bring a supply that will last the entire trip- you will not be able to fill prescriptions in Russia.
Miscellaneous
Bring a camera and enough film and camera batteries to last for the entire trip. Although it is possible to buy film in Russia, it is expensive and not always available when most needed! Electrical appliances such as hairdryers and electric razors require a special adapter for the 220V current and the European-style electrical outlets. It's better to leave them behind. If you cannot live without a hair dryer, you will need to purchase an adapter. Other necessary items are a battery powered or hand wound alarm clock, an umbrella, sunscreen and bug repellent for those travelling in the summer or early fall, and a money pouch or money belt for cash and important documents.
Bring a journal or a blank notebook on the trip in order to record your experiences. There will be many moments during the trip that you won't want to forget. Long train rides are good times to catch up on writing. Playing cards and paperback books are also popular ways to pass any free time - both make nice souveniers for new RUSSIAN friends.
Don't go overboard packing things like toilet paper and snack foods. While these things are fine in moderation, they will take up a lot of room in your luggage and will not be completely used during your stay in Russia.
Entering and Leaving Russia: Customs
Arrival into Russia
During the final leg of your flight into Russia you will be given a customs declaration form. (*Note: Recently many flights have not required this form if you have less than $500 to declare.) On this form, you MUST declare how much money you are bringing into Russia. If you have with you any valuable objects such as jewelry (costume jewelry and simple gold or silver jewelry are not a problem - very old or expensive jewelry containing precious stones or large amounts of gold or silver should be declared) or electronics (including video cameras, Walkmen and portable computers) which you plan to take home with you when you leave the country, these should also be declared on the back of the declaration. Ask a Project Harmony representative or flight attendant if you have questions about what should or should not be declared. YOU MUST KEEP THIS DECLARATION WITH YOU UNTIL THE END OF YOUR STAY IN RUSSIAN AND PRESENT IT AT CUSTOMS WHEN YOU LEAVE. DO NOT LOSE THIS DECLARATION. Keep it with your return plane ticket.
After getting off the plane and entering the airport, you will go through passport control. The lines are often long and slow-moving. You will present your passport and visa to the agent in the booth who may stare at you and your documents for several minutes before stamping them and waving you through. On the other side of the room you will find the baggage claim area where you can retrieve your luggage before proceeding to the customs agent. Present to the customs agent your passport, visa and customs declaration (if applicable). The customs agent may choose to search your bags, although this is now quite rare. If it does occur do not panic, cooperate with the official, and turn to a Project Harmony representative or chaperone for assistance.
Departure from Russia
Before leaving Russia, you will pass through customs at the airport. If you declared anything upon arrival, you will need to fill out a second identical customs form and present both forms to the customs agent, along with your passport and visa. If you did not declare anything upon arrival, and have not acquired anything requiring the approval of customs, you may proceed through customs with just your primary documents (passport and visa). There are some regulations regarding what cannot be taken out of Russia. You may NOT take the following out of Russia:
| Russian currency |
| Any valuable item for which you do not have proof that you either entered the country with it, received it as a gift, or legally purchased it |
| Religious icons (of a certain age), antiques, certain pieces of art, precious silver or gold items |
| Some military uniforms and related military paraphernalia |
| Any object resembling a weapon or that may be used as a weapon. |
Customs laws regarding old and valuable pieces of art or icons are detailed and very complicated. What's more, they are sporadically enforced. The customs officials have the right to charge a 600% tariff on pieces of art being brought out of the country. This means that all valuable pieces of art should be appraised and labeled so that customs officials can inspect them at the border. All of this depends exclusively upon the mood of the customs officer with whom you are dealing. Pieces of contemporary art may or may not be subject to tariff; religious icons produced in the last 10 to 20 years will not cause any problems; expensive souvenirs are not subject to tariffs. If you buy any valuable pieces of art or icons in a store, be sure to ask for an official receipt which can be shown at customs to avoid problems. It is a good idea to consult with a Project Harmony representative, before purchasing any items that could cause problems at the border.
Suggestions for Coping with Jet Lag
Jet lag refers to the physical and mental effects the body suffers when travelling a long distance over a number of time zones. Jet lag is the effect that takes place when the body's natural rhythms are disrupted. There are many different theories about how to best beat jet lag. We generally recommend to our exchange participants that they drink lots of water, avoid caffeine on the plane and, most importantly, to try not to sleep during the daylight when first arriving in Russia. If your flight arrives in the morning or early afternoon, you should try to force yourself to stay awake until bedtime at night. If you arrive in the evening, your job is much easier as you can go to sleep shortly after getting to your hotel or host family. All bodies adjust to differences in time in different ways. In general, recovering from jet lag will take one day per every two hours of time difference.
Russia is a geographical area that covers 11 time zones. Most of the cities in which Project Harmony runs its educator programs (including St. Petersburg) are 8 hours ahead of Eastern Standard Time in the US. If the time is 8:00 AM in New York, then it is 4:00 PM in Moscow. Military time (e.g. 16:00 rather than 4:00 PM) is often used in Russia, especially in public places or official situations.
Communication with Home from Russia
One of the goals of our cultural exchange programs is for participants to immerse themselves as completely as possible in the culture and traditions of Russia. We urge our participants to do so, not only by interacting with their host families and visiting the sites of the hosting community, but also by being willing to go without communication with friends and family at home for the duration of the trip.
We strongly urge participants in our exchange programs to leave for Russia with the intention of NOT communicating with friends and family at home. The reasons for this are numerous. First and foremost, it is extremely difficult and prohibitively expensive to call the United States from Russia. In many cities, it is necessary to order a call (through an operator) and wait hours for the call to be connected. Now, it is sometimes possible to dial the United States direct, but only from the major cities of Russia. Costs range from $2 to $10 per minute. We DO NOT recommend that participants call the US from the homes of their NIS hosts. Even if you offer to pay for the call (and sincerely want to do that!) politeness and tradition dictate that the hosts refuse any such offers. They will pay the bill themselves and most likely cannot afford to do so. Plan to not call home at all while in Russia.
In the event of an emergency, a Project Harmony representative will be responsible for immediately contacting the appropriate people, either by phone, FAX, or electronic mail. Your Project Harmony representative will be keeping regular contact with our offices in Russia throughout your trip. This information will be shared with our Vermont office.
The most effective way to communicate with Russia is by electronic mail. Our offices in Russia and the United States are in daily communication with each other over e-mail. If there are any urgent messages that need to be conveyed, one of our representatives will be glad to do so by electronic mail. However, we cannot be in a position of receiving and distributing e-mails for our exchange participants during the course of a trip. We urge trip participants and their friends and families to resort to using e-mail only in the case of a serious incident or emergency.
Homestays with Russian Families
Characteristics of Russian Homes
As a rule, Russian families are intimate and very close knit. In many cases, they are "multi-generational" families which have grandparents, parents, and children in one home. Spending time with family and extended family is very important. You will probably have the chance to meet many members of the extended family during your stay. It is very common for older children (in their 20's) tend to live at home, or somewhere nearby in the same city. You will probably notice that Russian families care for their adult children in ways that may seem surprising to you. For example, it is not uncommon to see a mother urging her 30-year old son to eat more or to dress more warmly. For the most part, members of Russian families share many aspects of their lives with each other and have extremely close relationships. Your Russian hosts will certainly extend the same concern to you as their short-term adopted family member. At first, you will probably find this very endearing and touching. But it can occasionally also be frustrating for Americans whose culture places such importance upon independence. If such situations arise, it is always helpful to look at what can be learned from the experience and to challenge oneself to be flexible and accepting, rather than judgmental.
You will immediately notice that most Russian homes have much less space than we are accustomed to in the United States. Apartments usually have 2 or 3 rooms in addition to a small kitchen and bathroom. Many times, the living room area is used as someone's bedroom. Apartments generally lack many of the amenities and appliances that are standard in American homes - microwave ovens, washing machines and dryers, toasters, dishwashers, and food processors. Bathrooms have two separate parts - the toilet is in one room and the bathtub and sink are in a separate, adjoining room.
Try to remain sensitive to the number of people living in the space available - if you are sitting in the living room after dinner and watching television, keep in mind that that room also serves as a bedroom. Your hosts would never ask you to leave if they were tired, so it is up to you to stay attuned for clues that it is getting late and the evening is winding down. Having said this, people in Russia are famous for their lengthy meals around the table and for singing songs late into the night. More often than not, you'll be the one falling asleep as the festivities continue around you!
Etiquette and Traditions for Guests in Russian Family
There are some significant differences between Russian and American cultures concerning etiquette. The role of the guest is quite different in Russia. In America, guests are generally urged to make themselves at home and to become a part of the family; guests in Russia are pampered as honored and highly esteemed individuals. Your hosts will spare no expense or sacrifice to make your visit to their home a special and memorable experience. This includes everything from lavish meals with dozens of friends and family, to members of the family sleeping in the kitchen or on the floor so that you may have your own room while staying with them. Your visit to an Russian family is a big event for them and they will take their responsibilities very seriously. There may be times when you will feel smothered by all the attention. Try to understand that this is classic Russian hospitality, and should not be interpreted as them treating you as a child.
You will undoubtedly come across many interesting items in your host family's apartment. Be careful what you admire too closely! If you notice something and spend time looking at it intently, your hosts will probably give it to you as a gift if at all possible. This includes valuable items and even family heirlooms. It can be difficult and frustrating to explain to your host that the old silver icon on their bookshelf is beautiful, but that you cannot possibly take it from their home! If you would like to compliment your friends, comment on the coziness of their home, the tastiness of the food, or upon their hospitality in general. People in Russia as a rule are very proud of their countries and of the cities they live in. Any compliments or positive words directed at the beauty of the surroundings or the richness of the culture will be taken as a personal endorsement and are very much appreciated.
Food
Although media often portray Russia with empty shelves and people waiting in long lines to buy bread, the reality is very different. Americans visiting Russia do not complain about going hungry - on the contrary, they are usually overwhelmed by the large amounts of food they are presented. With great vigor, your host will encourage you to constantly eat more.
The food, however, is different. Bread, potatoes, meat, and soup are the main staples of the diet. Fruits and vegetables are much less common than in the American diet. Another big difference is that Russians tend to drink much less liquid than most Americans. It isn't uncommon for people in Russia to sit down to a meal without anything to drink. Soup and hot drinks are considered a necessary part of the daily diet but cold drinks and water are not only considered unnecessary but sometimes are believed to cause colds and other sicknesses! Tea is the most widespread beverage and is served after every meal and at most social and business gatherings.
Be aware of the fact that you may need to drink more liquids than your hosts. Especially while travelling, it is very easy to become dehydrated. Many visitors to Russia buy bottled water and carry it with them since it isn't always easy to find cold drinks. Tap water is only fit to drink if it has been boiled and it is not rude to ask if the water you are served has been boiled.. Most people keep jars of boiled water on hand but if your hosts do not, you may ask them to.
The multiple-course meals and continuous flow of food that greets visitors in NIS homes can be confusing. In the spirit of Russian hospitality and generosity they will probably have gone to great efforts and expense to obtain special foods for you and may have been preparing for your visit for some time. While Russia is not on the verge of starvation the way the media often portrays it to be, you should remember that your host family does not eat like that every day. Knowing all this, you should not feel guilty or eat less, but rather try to fully appreciate what you are being served. Be adventurous and try some of everything, even things you may never have seen or usually don't eat. Eating heartily and cleaning your plate will be a compliment to your host's cooking abilities!
Gifts
Gifts play an important role in Russian traditions and culture. You will undoubtedly be showered with presents while you are there. It is important to come prepared with something to offer in return. There are two "categories" of gifts to think about when travelling to Russia. You will need to bring a number of small gifts that can be given out to people you happen to meet at schools, different events, or to friends of your host family. Appropriate gifts for such people might include: American flag pins, maps of your state or of the United States, post cards, key chains, bumper stickers, hair accessories for girls, nice pens or pencils, pins, American magazines, etc. Gifts for young children include: crayons, markers, coloring books, small games like jacks or checkers, bouncy balls, glow in the dark stickers for bedroom ceilings, "koosh" balls, bubble gum, stickers, baseball cards, etc. These gifts should be inexpensive items ($1 or $2 in cost) that can be given out to people you meet as a memento of your meeting with them.
It is also important to bring some special gifts for the people who will be hosting you personally and spending time with you in Russia. Gifts such as table top books or photography books with lots of pictures are very well received, especially if they are related to the area in which you live or to the United States in general. Other nice gifts include t-shirts or sweatshirts from your area or school, costume jewelry and necklaces, local foods like maple syrup candy or chocolates, and nice assortments of soaps and hand lotions for women. One very popular gift which is easy and has a nice personal touch to it is a small photo album with pictures of your family, friends, pets, house, car, etc.
Although at one time, items such as toilet paper, shampoo, cosmetics, soap, razors and cigarettes were difficult to come by and made good gifts, times have changed and they are now much more readily available (although expensive). These types of items may now be inappropriate to offer as gifts to your hosts because they may accentuate the differences between our economies and could be viewed more as an offer of charity than a thoughtful gift.
Finally, flowers are commonly given as gifts in Russia, both to guests arriving for a visit and for events such as birthdays or parties. Be prepared to receive flowers! If at all possible, flowers also make a nice gift to offer your hosts when preparing to leave their home. Flowers are commonly sold on the streets or at local markets. Keep in mind that it's considered bad luck to give someone an even number of flowers. Even numbers of flowers are generally given only at funerals.
New Russians
In recent years a new class of citizens has emerged in Russia, commonly referred to as the "New Russians." These people were able to take advantage of the opening of free market activities and have begun to amass quite a bit of money. Generally, the standard of living among these families is comparable to that of the West (or exceeds Western standards) and differs greatly from that of average folks in Russia: they own expensive cars, their apartments are filled with modern conveniences and electronic gadgets. They are generally talked about with great disdain by most members of the educational community, with whom we will be staying.
Teaching Obligations
Schools in Russia go from kindergarten through the eleventh grade. You will probably be exposed to classrooms at all levels and should be prepared to present a lesson according to their age and English ability. Having said that, you should also be prepared to be totally flexible in that the most important of having you in the classroom is allowing students to interact and listen to a "native" American speaker. Many well-prepared lessons have turned into question and answer sessions about American culture and the lives of their contemporaries. We should have information from your host school prior to our departure as to how many classes you will be teaching and observing each day.
Guidelines for Excursions
As part of a group, it is important that every participant pay close attention to the established schedule and be punctual at all times. We ask you not to delay events or activities by being late. Also, keep in mind that the school or organization which is hosting your group has gone to a great expense to prepare a program for you and that Project Harmony expects, not only your attendance, but your attention as well!
We ask you to be as tolerant and flexible as possible during your visit. Events and schedules are sometimes changed without a lot of prior notice. Please remember that your hosts will be making every effort to please you and that their resources are severely limited when compared with ours. A few kind words and warm smiles go a long way to making things work.
There are some guidelines you should be aware of when visiting churches, cemeteries, certain museums, and historical monuments in Russia. These sites are ones that most Russians hold dear and are extremely proud of. Your hosts will be very excited to show you these places . Women may need to wear scarves or skirts to enter some churches and monasteries. Your Project Harmony guide will remind you of such points of etiquette during the trip. Try to think about how Americans regard the Vietnam Memorial and Arlington Cemetery in Washington, D.C. and it will help you understand how important these places are to people in Russia.
Money and Shopping Questions
Changing Money in Russia
The basic unit of money in Russia is the ruble. Though the rate of inflation has slowed considerably since the early to mid-1990s (the main exception being the crash in August 1998), the US dollar continues to inch up on the ruble.
All official transactions in Russia must be conducted in rubles. To buy anything in a store, eat in a restaurant or buy a stamp in the post office, you will need to exchange your American money for rubles. Money can be changed at exchange bureaus located in banks, hotels, stores and on the main streets of all cities. Here are a few guidelines for you to follow when bringing money to Russia:
You must bring US dollars with you. Rubles can be purchased only in Russia. You will not be able to order rubles from a bank before your departure, but will find many exchange bureaus and banks throughout Russia. |
Your cash should be in small denominations (10 or 20 dollar bills) so that you can change small amounts of money at a time. The exchange rate fluctuates so it makes sense to change money only as you need it. You can rubles into US dollars before leaving to go home, but you will pay a small fee for the exchange. |
All US bills should be like new. Exchange bureaus may not accept bills that are bent, crumpled, folded, written on, discolored or marked up in any way. |
It is best to bring new US bills (i.e. the ones with bigger faces). Older bills are often not accepted by exchange bureaus. |
Bring a photocopy of your passport, which by law must be presented when you exchange money. |
Often people on the street or in a hotel will offer to exchange your money at a better rate. PLEASE DO NOT EXCHANGE MONEY ON THE STREET! It is not safe, smart or legal. Both parties can get into serious trouble with the authorities if caught.
*IMPORTANT:
Travellers' checks and credit cards are not useful in Russia!! With the exception of exclusive, high-priced hotels and stores in Moscow and St. Petersburg, credit cards and travellers' checks are rarely accepted. While it may seem a bit scary, participants must rely only on the cash they bring with them. Again, we recommend purchasing a money belt or neck pouch that can be worn inside your clothing to keep your money safe from theft and forgetfulness.
Souvenir Shopping in Russia
You will have many opportunities to purchase goods and souvenirs on the street. Many times, the vendors on the streets will accept American dollars. If you decide to buy souvenirs from these vendors, keep the following in mind:
Check the quality of the items being sold very carefully. Many of the souvenir items sold are quite expensive and are of good quality. But mixed in with these are products of inferior quality. There is no way to "return" something you've bought if you decide 10 minutes later that it's not what you wanted. |
As Americans, you will immediately attract a crowd of wandering vendors at any tourist type attraction you visit, particularly in Moscow or St. Petersburg. The sellers will descend upon the group and may even follow you around trying to "make a deal." If you are not interested in buying anything from these people, tell them so clearly and keep walking. |
It's perfectly acceptable to bargain with street vendors. They will offer you an initial price which you can then "talk down." Don't settle for the first price they offer you. |
Many stores also sell souvenirs. The process for buying things in Russian stores can be confusing to people who are witnessing it for the first time. Ask your host family or a Project Harmony representative to help you if you want to purchase something.
Safety Issues
There are some basic safety issues that all travelers should be aware of. Particularly in the largest cities of Russia like Moscow and St. Petersburg, incidents of street crime like pickpocketing are on the rise. Keep the following tips in mind during your stay in Russia:
Do not carry your money or wallet in the back pocket of your pants. The best place for money is in the front pocket of your pants or in a money pouch or money belt worn around the waist or inside your shirt. It is wise not to carry all your money in one place. |
Don't carry cameras dangling in your hands or loose in your coat pockets. Cameras with straps or camera bags (as well as purses) should be worn across your chest diagonally and not simply on your shoulder. Wear backpacks firmly on two shoulders and make sure that all the compartments are closed securely. |
Watch out for gangs of kids who come up to you begging for money. Likewise, be cautious of strangers who approach you, wanting to talk to you or ask you questions. [This applies primarily to Moscow and St. Petersburg. While visiting outlying cities, it's very possible that people will approach you on the streets in order to meet you and talk to you, since you stand out as foreign visitors.] |
In Moscow or St. Petersburg, the most common petty criminals are people who take advantage of crowded public spaces by literally cutting open the bottom of your bag or purse and emptying out the contents. Often, you only realize the theft much later when your bag seems lighter. |
Be aware of your surroundings. Look out for yourself and other people in your group. |
The following comments apply almost exclusively to time you will spend in Moscow and St. Petersburg: It is important that you stay with the group during all planned excursions and activities. There will be some periods of free time when you will be able to shop, explore, and relax. During such times, we insist that you stay in groups of at least 3 or 4 people and do not wander on your own. Do not use the metro or taxis without consulting with someone from Project Harmony first. DO NOT, UNDER ANY CIRCUMSTANCES, give anyone you meet on the street a phone number or address where you can be reached.
Role of the Exchange Participant
Please remember that whenever you travel to another country, you act as an ambassador for your group and for the United States. You have a remarkable opportunity to share your history and culture with Russians and at the same time, to learn about their heritage and traditions. The impressions your host family and Russians have of you and your group will influence and form their own attitudes about Americans and the United States. This is not a responsibility to be taken lightly!
As guests, it is our obligation to observe and respect the laws and customs of Russia. The U.S. Embassies overseas can be very helpful in case of emergencies, but cannot do anything to help Americans who have broken laws of Russia.
Most importantly, get ready to have a GREAT time! People in Russia are renowned for their hospitality and warmth. Your hosts are eagerly awaiting your arrival.
Winter 2001
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